Last night we went to a popular nightlife street in Ankara.  Not a clubbing street, but lots of pubs and cafes.  Mandiras and restaurants.  Live music poured out of most cafes.  We walked the whole length of the street, peeking in stores, watching people.  All along the street there are men with carts selling roasted chestnuts.  So wonderful!  They are cheery spots of of light against the dark street.  The carts are heated by wood, a little stove at the bottom, a metal sheet with holes  letting the warmth and smoke heat the chestnuts.  The nuts were warm and smoky, just delicious.  We walked the rest of the street with out treat until we found a cafe with live blues. After music and coffee we wet out into the blustery and cold night.  It is finally starting to feel like winter.