Turkey during Ramadan

Ramadan or Ramazan started today.  It is the 9th month of the Islamic calendar where observant Muslims observe a month of fasting from sun up to sun set as one of the Five Pillars of Islam.  Not to say that all Muslims fast, it is the same as every religion, some people are more observant than others, just like during Lent.  It is based on the lunar calendar and so it moves through out the year.  This year it has fallen during summer, which makes it more difficult because it is hot and the days are longer.  There are of course exceptions, if you are ill, traveling, pregnant, breastfeeding, diabetic or menstruating you are exempt.  Those who are fasting refrain from eating, drinking liquids, smoking and sex during those hours.

During this time people get up before dawn and east their pre-fast meal called sahur, and at sunset people usually break their fast with a date, and then eat a large meal  called Iftar.

How does this affect your vacation or non-fasting residents?  It won’t. But…

For one I try to be more patient and less reactive with people.  When people are fasting they have not eaten or drunk for hours, and may have given up smoking cold turkey (pun not intended).  This would make anyone cranky.  So if I run into people who are a little brusque, I just go with it.  I also let my cleaning lady off early because she worked all day without drinking anything and has to get home and prepare dinner before she can break her fast.

My husband and I try to be discreet about food as well.  We will still eat in restaurants, but we try not to sit in street view parts of the dining areas.  We do not eat or drink on the street during this time either.  I am also more discreet about alcohol as well.  Alcohol consumption is forbidden in the Quran, and I know some Muslims give up alcohol for Ramazan, even if they do not fast.

In tourist areas with large amounts of foreigners, not too much changes.  Restaurants are still crowded, alcohol sold, etc.  They understand they you are not fasting, do not expect you to, and honestly tourism is their livelihood. They need you to buy food and alcohol.  However it is polite to be sensitive and eat mostly in restaurants or defined eating areas, not in the street.  You make want to make a reservation for dinner, as restaurants may be crowded during iftar.  Also, do not be alarmed if you hear drumming at 2 or 3 in the morning.  It is to wake up people for sahur.

So welcome to Turkey, enjoy your vacation.  The people here are still incredibly hospitable and warm, just give your hosts a break if they are moving a little slow…they may not have eaten or drunk all day and are still trying to serve you yours with a smile.

 

*Idea from Adventures in Ankara hold off your grilling until after iftar, even though it is prime grilling season.

Do We “Do” Christmas?

I was at a Christmas party the other day and someone was very curious about whether or not we “did” Christmas.  Living in a Islamic country with a Muslim husband I suppose it was a valid question.  The thing is, religion was/is never an issue for us.  My husband is not devout, more spiritual than religious, and I am not religious or spiritual.  I celebrate Christmas as a cultural custom and a fun holiday rather than a religious exercise.

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I feel lucky that our religious differences (he believes and I do not) were never an issue for our relationship.  I know that is not true for everyone.  I have several friends who converted to Islam as it would have been an issue for the marriage and children.  Their experiences vary from a conversion simply for peace of mind for family members to an uneasy balance between Christmas and the Turkish “New Year” holiday which includes presents and decorated trees.

I also have many friends who married Turkish men who have not converted.  These friends celebrate ALL the holidays, their own religious holidays as well as the Islamic ones.     I also have friends who married regardless of the issue, and while they have no problem with it, it is an issue for their families.

One time I had someone ask me if it was a problem for my parents that my boyfriend (at the time) was a Muslim.   I was shocked that a person who was not intimately involved in my life thought it was appropriate to ask me personal questions about my relationship at all—let alone such as ridiculous one.  I told her she should focus on her own daughter who had bigger issues in her own relationship.  (Oh the horror!  Her daughter was dating a Yankees fan rather than a Red Sox fan. )

So yes.  We “do” Christmas.  We decorate a tree, exchange presents, eat fattening foods.  We also celebrate the New Year by giving presents to his family.  We have found a nice balance of his customs and mine rather than his religion and mine.

And for the larger issue at hand—NO he does not cheer for the Yankees.