Lost and Found

Several times recently I have gotten lost on my way somewhere.  I got the directions confused and ended up having no idea of where I was.  I had two options, go with it or turn around go back and start stressing.  In years past I would have done the latter, however, one of the things I am better at now is the former. 

In Turkey this is important.  Sometimes when you are doing something, whether it is driving, paperwork, trying to get something done, there are obstacles.  But getting tense about it will not help. TRUST ME!  My husband likes to say the F-Word in Turkey is “Flexibility.”  One has to be flexible to get stuff done. 

So when I was lost, I just kept driving.  One of the great things about driving in Turkey is the road signs.  Not the street signs, you could die of old age looking for a particular street.  But the road signs are great, they are all over the place and direct you to different neighborhoods.  Most people know how to get around then they are in a neighborhood, the hard part is getting there. 

In this sign the white signs are to neighborhoods, the blue to a different city.  The blue sign will take you to a highway.  Another thing about Turkey is there is no East/West North/South Highway nonsense.  The highways are designated by the major city they go to.  For example, for this highway, one direction is called Konya Road, the other Samsun Road.  This is helpful for people (me) who get their directions mixed up. 

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So when I get lost, I just keep driving and look for the road signs.  The other day when I was completely lost, I ended up right where I wanted to be.  Funny how that happens. 

Mourning for Boston

Every year, on Marathon Monday we would tune in to the Marathon.  It was always an event we watched.  We did not watch football, baseball or basketball regularly, but we always watched the marathon.  There is something about the grueling event, 26.2 miles through the heart of several towns in the Boston metropolitan area, that creates devotion.   In this day and age we have become disconnected from each other.  Our capitalist individualism creates a feeling of isolation, a separateness of other and a disconnection of community.  Marathon Monday is a day when this separate space between people dissolves, when a passionate community is created.  That stranger whose shoulder is pressing  against yours, as you both strain over the barrier to cheer on the runners, becomes your friend, and you create a moment with this person that will never fade.  That is what the Boston Marathon is to a non-runner.  Imagine what the runners feel like. 

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I had the privilege of going to Wellesley College, which is at the halfway point on the marathon route.  Every year Wellesley cancels classes, sets up a fair atmosphere, including a concert, beer and food tents and the students line the road and cheer on the runners.  This creates the “Scream Tunnel” where students scream encouragement and also kiss runners.  For four years, I stood on the sidelines and cheered on the runners, and even kissed a few. I cheered on friends, strangers and even got to see Team Hoyt run.  

The Boston Marathon means so much to so many people, from all over the world, and especially the New England community.  When I saw the news of the bombing on Monday (late at night for me) I could not have articulated my feelings.   I woke up all night checking for news of the victims and survivors.  I was mourning for both the victims and surviving of the tragedy, as well as the community.  I am also grieving for the Marathon itself, for what was, and how it will never be the same. 

After the bombs detonated, and the races was stopped, people all along the route were helping stranded marathon runners with nourishment and transportation, websites were created to organize housing for runners and their families stranded in the Boston area.   My heart goes out to those affected, and also to the community that responded. 

Easter and Daylight Savings

This morning I am sitting on the balcony with a cup of coffee, with only a light sweatshirt on. Spring is definitely here! It was beautiful yesterday too, around 65. So we invited friends to walk with us an Eymir Gölü. We walked around lake, about 10k, and stopped at Bağ Evi to have a bite of lunch. Unfortunately they no longer serve beer (as is becoming more common here) so instead we got a samovar of tea and had fresh gözleme.

Today was Daylight Savings.  I always hate too lose an hour, and it puts us ahead of the U.S. by seven hours again, instead of six.  That one hour really makes a difference. 

Today is also Easter.  Happy Easter!  I know there are people in my building who are celebrating it at their church, but as a non-believer I passed on the invitation.  However, it seems strange not at least to do Easter Brunch.  It is funny to find how culturally ingrained holidays are, even if you aren’t religious.  I made hot cross buns the other day.  It seemed seasonally appropriate.  However, the next time I make them I will forgo the icing on top and rather than making buns, will use the though to make a loaf of bread.  I think it will be very tasty sliced and toasted.  I will be tweaking the recipe and posting it soon. 

Happy Spring!  Happy Easter!  Happy Nevruz!

Birthday Week

Last week was my birthday.  I was very lucky to have many friends who want to celebrate it with me!  Bülent took me out for a lovely romantic dinner.  His gift to me is a romantic trip to Antalya, planned in April when it will be a bit warmer.  Another friend had me over on my actual birthday for a delicious dinner.  We also went over to Bülent’s parents and had a family diner with his parents and aunt an uncle.  His mom knows I love fish and made a special dinner for me. 

The day before my birthday I went out with my friend Terry from Adventures in Ankara, and had an adventure!  We went to Cer Modern, a modern art museum, for lunch.  Lunch was great, the museum very nice, and time with Terry—always fun!  What made our outing an adventure was that we got a traffic ticket!  I was driving and she was navigating from the GPS on her phone.  It told us to take a right, so we did, but turns out it was an illegal right on Ataturk Bulvari.  So we were sitting at the intersection and I was trying to figure out how we were going to make it across the traffic with no light when a police man waved me across.  I was very thankful to make it across in one piece, but then he asked for my license and registration.  We explained we didn’t know the area and were following the GPS.  He nodded knowingly and said, Ah yes, GPS…”   and then gave me a ticket.  It is kind of a novelty.  I don’t know anyone else who has gotten a traffic violation ticket from a real life police man.  It just doesn’t happen here.  Most people get tickets from cameras, even though I have talked myself out of one of those before too.  This office was very polite and apologetic but would not budge.   So ticket it was! 

For my birthday present to myself I made cupcakes.  Two kinds.  The first a carrot cake with labne frosting (tips coming soon on how to substitute Labne for cream cheese) and the second, devil’s food cake with peanut butter frosting.  I have to say, carrot cake is my favorite, but the peanut butter frosting was decadent on the moist chocolate cupcakes. 

Cupcakes

It was an amazing week, so filled with friends and family we had to rest all weekend to recover.  It made me feel so appreciated that so many people wanted to celebrate my birthday with me, I definitely have a community here.   It was fun and uncomplicated, my last birthday before marching into my 30’s, which seems a little bit daunting!

Balance

This year, I am trying to have a more balanced life.  After the stress of the last couple years, it has been great to just enjoy life.  Things are going well.  I have been going to the gym three or four times a week, and walking on the weekends.  I have been taking time to live.  For example, going to the pazar even when it would be quicker just to go to the grocery store.  The quality of the produce is so much better, and I really enjoy getting out and looking through all the wares.  

Bülent and I are also eating and living cleaner.  We are mostly vegetarian and I have been trying to use natural cleaning products, like this  vinegar orange cleanser.  I have also been preparing food for the work week during the weekend, which makes coming home from work and getting dinner ready less stressful. It also reduces the temptation to order take-out.  I have even been packing my own healthy lunch, rather than eating the free (fairly unhealthy) meals at work.

On the quest to have more balance, I decided to give up drinking for a month. I love wine as much as the next person, and have nothing against it, but I realized that a glass of wine after work was pretty habitual.   I thought that if I abstained for a month, it would make me more mindful of appreciating what I was drinking, and make it a decision rather than a habit.  Today my alcohol-free month is up.  I will be buying myself a lovely bottle of wine for my birthday this week.  Or, the makings for dirty martinis! Either way, I am sure it will be delicious!

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Hünkar Beğendi

This is one of my favorite Turkish dishes.  I love making it as much as I love eating it!

The recipe below can be made vegetarian or carnivore friendly.  Below is the lamb version.  However, my husband says he actually prefers the vegetarian version, with the chipotle flavor. 

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Eggplant Purée

4 pounds of roasted eggplant
juice of 1/2 lemon
3 tbsp butter
3 tbsp flour
1 cup milk
1/2 cup grated aged cheddar or  parmesan
Salt
Pepper

Roast the eggplant, poke holes in the eggplant and either roast in oven over broiler or on stovetop over open flame-until eggplants are soft.  Peel and mash (or purée)  with lemon juice.  Set aside.

Melt the butter, add flour, stir roux on low heat until combined.  Add min and salt and pepper, simmer for five minutes.  Add eggplant, stir well, then add cheese.  Stir well again.

Stew (Carnivore and Vegetarian)

1 pound of boneless lamb stew chunks (Vegetarian:Instead of lamb use 1 1/2 cups of green lentils)
2 cups water
1 onion, sliced
3 green peppers, chopped
3 tomato, chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
3 tbsp tomato paste
Olive oil
Salt & Pepper

For vegetarian stew add a little chipotle chili for more body, otherwise the stew can be weak when paired with the eggplant purée. 

Sauté onions in olive oil, then add the meat.  (For Vegetarian: add washed lentils and more water to accommodate lentils.) Cook until browned, add the peppers and sauté for several minutes.  Add tomatoes, tomato paste and hot water.  Let simmer for an hour to and hour and a half, until meat is tender.  You may need to add more water.

To Assemble:

Make a base with the eggplant purée and spoon the stew on top.  It can be served family style in a large dish (my preference) or onto each plate.  This dish is lovely as it can be made ahead of time and heated up and assembled later. 

Spring?

The weather has been strange this winter in Ankara.  It seems to go back and forth between cold and spring-like weather.   Today, the sun is shining bright, the weather is lovely and it looks like the trees are budding. 

Not that I would know.  I have been trapped inside with a nasty cold.  I am planning to be fully recovered by tomorrow.  I have been hacking and sniffling since Wednesday…Enough is enough!

I am really excited for spring.  I can wait to get flowers for the window boxes on the balcony.  This year I also have some nasturtium seeds to plant to climb on the railings  I have already started basil and thyme inside, as well as cilantro and mustard greens. 

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I started some chives I started a few months ago, but  I  have to say, they have been really struggling.  I am sure they will like going out on the balcony again and having some more sunlight.    On the positive side—my tulip bulbs are blooming which makes the apartment seem  nice and cheery! 

I do not have a green thumb, but am trying to practice, so when we have a yard it does not look like a barren wasteland!

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Super Chocolate Brownies

 

This weekend Bülent and I were craving some naughty food, so I pulled out all the stops!  I usually can’t eat chocolate desserts here due to cross contamination with hazelnuts.  However, if I make it myself with bitter chocolate, I am safe.  So this weekend I made some really rich, decadent, chocolatey brownies. 

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They were practically black with chocolate.

For fun I threw in some chunks of 70% Cocoa dark chocolate!

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Super Chocolate Brownies

1 1/3 cups granulated sugar
3/4 cup baking cocoa
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
2 tablespoons water
3/4 cup butter
2 teaspoons vanilla

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350°F or 180°C.  Grease your baking pan.  Combine the sugar, cocoa, flour, baking powder, and salt.  Add eggs, water, butter and vanilla and stir well.  Optional: Add nuts or chocolate pieces.  Spread into pan.  Bake for  about 25 minutes, until knife or toothpick inserted in center comes out cleanish.  Let cool before slicing.  DEVOUR!

Belated Cruise

Before my father died he wanted to take one last vacation with the family.  Unfortunately he died just a few days before we were supposed to leave.  So this year, during school vacation, my family and I decided to take our “Last Cruise” as a family of four.  Like the slightly morbid and irreverent family we are, we decided that everyone should go—so we brought Dad.  He is small and doesn’t take up much room, so we didn’t have to buy him a ticket. We did bury some of him next to my brother, but he was a wanderer and explorer, so we wanted to honor that too.

So the whole family went on a cruise, and we had a great time.  It was really special to just be together, with no distractions or work.   We didn’t take too many photos because we were just having so much fun!

We were active most of the trip, trying to avoid the consequences of the open buffet!  Mom and I jogged each morning, and twice we climbed the Rock Wall.  The first time my mother didn’t make it to the top, so she dragged us back the next day and she rocked it! (Bad pun intended!  Sorry!)  She made it all the way to the top and rang the bell!

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Doing it another time allowed me to try the harder path the second time around.

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Elliot and I had lots of sib bonding time.  Though I kept getting the evil eye from the single girls because they thought we were a couple.  Apparently we don’t look alike as much as we did when we were young!

(Example A: Stone Cold Fox)

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Elliot had picked out a shore excursion in Cozumel Mexico that included ATVs and wild animals.  I was a little wary at first, but we had a lot of fun.

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They were raising money for conservation efforts and we were able to meet some of the species they were trying to help.

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In Cozumel, I passed a store named “Deniz”  and HAD to stop in.  Of course, the owner was Turkish.  He had moved to Mexico five years ago.  He thought his path in life was set, he was in his fifties and had never been married.  But, as it happens, he fell in love with the woman he hired to help run his store.  They married a couple years ago–he is 60,she is 35, and they have the most beautiful baby, named Deniz!  So I got to practice my Turkish, and he was excited to speak it.

All

It was a lovely trip, which sounds a little like bragging after hearing about that cruise ship that had to be towed in from sea while the passenger reenacted Lord of the Flies.   It was a vacation, and a time to let go and say good bye.  As I mentioned previously, we had brought some of my father’s ashes with us.  We used this time to scatter his ashes around the Caribbean Sea.  We thought he would enjoy it as a (partial) final resting place.  So we returned to NH with one less corporeal family member, but some good memories of all four of us on vacation.

New Meze Posts

I posted two new salads under Ev Yemeği, Mezeler.  These dishes are both variations of vegetable yogurt salads.  They are striking because of their coloring and depending on their garlic content, sometimes I serve them as a side or a condiment. 

Yoğurtlu Pancar Salatası (Beet and Yogurt Salad)

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Yoğurtlu Havuç Salatası (Carrot and Yogurt Salad)